This is a 1/28 scale RWD drift car with an adjustable wheelbase from 86mm to 116mm, at an increment of 2mm. So you can use the Mini-Z body as well as the 1/24 scale model as a body. It is based on the Mini-Q Q5OP which is a pretty good car. So you can think of it as Mini-Q Q5OP RWD drift mod. The chassis plates are carbon fibre and the bulkheads are aluminium. It uses Mini-Z AWD wheels and differential so you have a lot of upgrade options. It comes with a solid axle. And you can change it to ball differential very easily if you want. It has adjustable camber, toe, and front width. You can also tune the ride height using this ring from Mini-Z. And put it on the lower pole of the knuckle. In banggood there are 3 packages to choose from. 1st, chassis only. You’ll have to provide your own wheels, tyres and all the electronics including gyro and radio. And also don’t forget the battery, charger and body. Next is the kit with a brushed motor which is what I have. And the last one is the kit with a brushless motor. Both of them come with a mini gyro, a battery, a charger and a set of wheels and tyres.
So you’ll only have to provide your own radio and body. Unless you already have everything, I highly recommend a kit with electronics either brushed or brushless. The brushed system got the same ESC as DumboRC and it’s really smooth. You can also install a low voltage alarm on it. As for the brushless, it comes with a Mini-Q brushless ESC which is quite good. It’ll power the 3500KV motor without any problem. The gyro is very good. It’s the same unit as AGF, XRX, Yeah Racing and Eagle Racing. This car comes as a kit so you’ll have to build it. But don’t worry. It’s easy to build and also easy to set up. All the components for each part of the car are in the same bag. So you don’t have to waste your time looking for the right screw or bearing. They will just be there. And you build it bag by bag. There’s no manual so you’ll either have to rely on Mini-Q exploded view and photos on the internet or find some build videos to follow. I’m going to tell you all the things to look out for right now. And I’ll upload my build video in full length later. Before we go any further I’d like to say thank you to everyone in the comment section of my unboxing video. You all have been a great help especially SupercarDriver, Garage Mini RC UK and Auranapse. I’m sorry if I got your names wrong. With all your advices I got my car built and setup perfectly. Now, let’s get on with the build. First thing to look out for are the wheel hub bearings. The sealed bearings go in the front. And the opened bearings go in the back. I took the bearings out to clean and didn’t remember which one goes where so at first my car didn’t run at all. So please don’t make the same mistake that I did. Also, make sure that the front wheels can spin freely and it’ll run perfectly. It also needs a spacer under the top deck at the front to lift it up 2mm. Otherwise, the servo horn will hit the top deck and it won’t be able to steer. Use soft double-sided tape to stick the gyro down to reduce the vibration. I use 2 layers of Tesa double-sided tape. Finally don’t forget to switch the gyro to match the type of your servo. If you get the kit with electronics then the servo is digital. Next, let’s look at my setup. The wheelbase is 90mm because I use a Toyota AE86 body. The wheels are from Mini-Z Nissan GT-R and the tyres are from DS Racing LF-3. The included tyres are good but these are better and smoother. Although the front width can be adjusted there’s only one width you can use. Extend the lower arms out all the way. Then push the top arms in a bit to create some camber. What I have here is 2 degrees camber. Then adjust these links to open up the front toe-out. Here I have around 2 degrees of toe-out. As for the back, I push the top arms all the way in for maximum camber which is 5 degrees. This will give it minimum tyres contact and I can do slow drift very easily. And then adjust these 2 linkages to have a 1-degree toe-in. On the transmitter, I limit the steering endpoint to 94% and the throttle endpoint to 40%. Gyro gain is also 40%. Now, let’s see how it drifts. In conclusion, this is much easier to build, much easier to tune and much easier to drive than Atomic DRZ. It has a massive steering angle so it won’t spin out easily. However, it has a little bit of play in the steering so it’s not very precise. But with a bit of practice I can put it exactly where I want. Parts quality is also really good. Everything fits together perfectly. There’s no manual but you can look up some build videos online. I only looked at some pictures from Super G Drift to build it. Well, I can build Mini-Q without manual so that doesn’t say much. Anyway, I’ll upload my build video later. The only thing I don’t like about this car is the battery compartment or the lack of it. The way you insert the battery is shove it anywhere that fits. I use Velcro to hold it in. All in all, I highly recommend this car for anyone who wants to start RWD drifting. It’s the easiest one to build and it is great to drive. If you look at the price, it’s quite expensive, starting at 153 dollars for chassis only. So I suggest you wait for a discount or use discount coupon or point to buy it. Still, if you get the kit with electronics then servo, gyro and tyres are very good and they are well worth the price.